The honest answer is "it depends" — so here's exactly what it depends on, what a good quote includes, and how to compare prices fairly.
Anyone who quotes a firm price for windows or doors without seeing your home is guessing. The cost of a real glazing project depends on how many openings you're replacing, the frames and glass you choose, and the condition of what's already there. Two homes that look similar from the street can be hundreds of pounds apart.
Rather than give you a number that turns out to be wrong, here's what actually drives the price — so when you do get a quote, you'll understand every line of it.
Most glazing is quoted per unit, so the more windows and doors you're replacing, the higher the total — though the price per unit often eases on a whole-house job where set-up and access are shared across the work.
uPVC is the most cost-effective and the most popular. Aluminium costs more but gives slimmer, stronger frames for large panes and bifolds. Timber sits at the top — beautiful on period homes, but more expensive to make and to maintain.
Standard A-rated double glazing is the baseline. Triple glazing, acoustic glass, toughened or laminated safety glass, and decorative or obscured units all cost more — and the right choice depends on the room, the noise, and how exposed the property is.
A large bay, an arched head, a sash window, or a shaped feature unit takes more material and more skill than a standard casement. Bifold and sliding doors are priced by the number of panels and the span.
If the old frames come out cleanly and the surrounding brickwork and lintels are sound, fitting is straightforward. Rotten timber, damaged reveals, or openings that need making good all add labour that a simple swap doesn't.
Composite and high-security doors with multi-point locking, accredited cylinders, and quality handles cost more than a basic door — but they're the part of the house an intruder meets first, so it's rarely the place to cut corners.
Replacement windows and doors must meet thermal and safety standards, and the work needs notifying and certifying. A registered installer self-certifies and handles the paperwork; that compliance is part of doing the job properly, not an optional extra.
Upper floors, scaffolding, awkward access, or removing and disposing of old frames and glass all feed into the time a job takes. Most domestic work is straightforward; we'll flag anything unusual up front.
Tell us about your project and we'll see your home and give you a clear, no-obligation quote — every line explained.
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